18 October, 2014

Textile Innovation - Week One Part Two

[ Notes Part TWO]

-----Developments in commercial fibre sources
  • Cotton, sustainable production
Cotton provides about 45% of the worlds fibre consumption, and is the world largest non food crop

Conventional agriculture accounts for 25% of global insecticide use

Organic cotton is becoming more widely available

Naturally colored cotton is a commercial product

Cotton can be recycled and composted

[Further Personal Research]
  • Sally Fox - inventor of the foxfibre colored cotton
Sally Fox introduced naturally colored cotton to the world in 1989. She didn’t invent it – it has existed in nature for eons – but Sally did what no one thought was possible: she carefully hand-bred ancient, naturally pest-resistant varieties into long staple cottons that can be spun by conventional mills. And she did it using organic and biodynamic growing methods.

A few samples of Sally’s organic grown-in color cotton fabric, woven commercially in the US in the 1990s.
  • A new fashion brand in Brazil, Natural Cotton Color, has made their focus using the spectrum of cotton colors that exist naturally. There are 40 different natural colors of cotton.



Original varieties come in a range of colors: mocha, tan, gray, brown, black, mahogany, red, pink, blue, green, cream and white. 

Colored cotton has become obscure because shorter fiber lengths make it unsuitable for industrial milling, but it's in fact more robust and sustainable than commercial white cotton, which requires an enormous amount of pesticides to keep it viable.

Developing natural colored cotton eliminates the need for chemical dyes and uses 70% less water than conventional production. Grown on small farms to support local agriculture.

[Resource] 
Sally Fox - inventor of the foxfibre colored cotton. Available at: <http://www.women-inventors.com/Sally-Fox.asp> [Accessed  18 October 2014]


Karen Brown. [2013]. Sally Fox and the World of Naturally Colored Fiber. Available at: <https://blog.etsy.com/en/2013/sally-fox-and-the-world-of-naturally-colored-fiber/> [Accessed  18 October 2014]

Joel Niedfeldt. [2011]. Natural Cotton Color -The many shades of Brazil's more sustainable cotton movement. Available at: <http://www.coolhunting.com/style/brazil-natural.php> [Accessed  18 October 2014]

  • Cotton, improved performance
Cotton must compete with synthetic fibres in offering improved functionality

Wind and waterproofing qualities can be added via 'nano technology' without altering the fabric's look or touch

Core spinning encases stretch elements inside cotton yarns

Crease resist and easy -care finishes can be added

Genetic modification can assist with improved crop yields but is controversial due to questionable environmental performance

  • Silk
This protein based animal fibre is known for its aesthetic appeal & luxurious qualities

Genetic manipulation can create finer and longer fibre, and inbuilt color

Wild silk from South Africa provides a sustainable income for rural populations

Strong fine silk fibre are used in the medical world, cosmetic products, paper making, insulation and thermal underwear.

[Further Personal Research]
In Asian culture, silk is a popular fabric for the wealth in ancient time. 

Surcoat (Jinbaori)

Period: Edo period (1615–1868)
Date: 17th century
Culture: Japan
Medium: Body: China, for the European market, late 16th–17th century; silk velvet, cut and voided Lining: China, late 16th–17th century; silk damask Lapels: Japan, probably 18th century; lampas, silk and gilt-paper strips
Available at: <http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/39902?rpp=30&pg=1&ft=chinese+silk&pos=9>


Noh Costume (Surihaku) with Chinese Bellflowers

Period: Edo period (1615–1868)
Date: 18th century
Culture: Japan
Medium: Gold and silver leaf on silk satin
Accessed at: <http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/45198?rpp=30&pg=1&ft=chinese+silk&pos=27>

Saddle

Date: 17th–18th century
Culture: Chinese for the Tibetan market
Medium: Iron, gold, silver, wood, coral, ivory, silk, hair, tin, pigments, leather
Accessed at: <http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/26642?rpp=30&pg=1&ft=chinese+silk&pos=16>

  • Flax
This very ancient raw material is known as linen, and offers a wide variety of end uses and products.

In addition to clothing textiles, linen is used in automotive, construction, domestic and interior textile areas

Enzyme use has improved environmental aspects of production

Combinations with stretch fibre, silk, viscose and polyester provide a range of functions and characteristics, plus reducing creasing problems

[Further Personal Research]
The Row Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear shows a great collection that match silk, linen and cotton together.




 Silk and linen always use in loose, simple, elegant silhouettes, shows a comfort and costly feeling.

Image Accessed at: <http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/row/collection/2>

  • Man-made cellulosic
Produced from natural cellulosic sources of wood pulp , cotton, linen and bamboo

Textiles are fluid and soft to handle, with strong wet strength, absorbency and breathability

Tencel is a branded cellulose fibre produced in a 'closed loop' system with improved environmental performance

Lyocell is used in woven & knitted forms, and as a non-woven for medical applications and hospital textiles.

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