29 October, 2014

Research -Matières Ouvertes

Matières Ouvertes is a French design studio specializing in 3D textiles.
Mixing various materials such as linen, recycled rubber, copper, polyester, he designed technical fabrics to the specific physical properties: cushioned, non-slip, insulating, etc.

The fields of application are varied: architecture, design, fashion, sports, medical environment, where the stress technical guide aesthetic graphic. 



Air cushion / 1



Air cushion / 2
A range of 3D textiles with shock-absorbing, air-circulation and massaging properties.



Out
A range of linen/pvc textiles for indoor/outdoor flooring.


Mirror
A range of aluminum/pvc textiles for indoor/outdoor use.






Indestructible!
A range of recycled inner-tube textiles with anti-skid, insulating and anti-shock properties. For flooring, protective clothing, luggage, saddlery, leather goods.




Copper!
Copper knitting.
Mix of a rigid material and an elastic structure. This material can be sculpted while maintaining its original form.





Shock absorber
A line of neoprene-thread textiles, with shock-absorbing, assembly and insulating properties.


Tatoo
Carded wool, felted with Sophie Hallette industrial lace. This material is a new interpretation of felt. 
The wool is protected from dust by the lace, and soundproofing properties are maintained.



Henhouse
A range of linen/copper/polyester fabrics for outdoor use.




Chronoforms
Objects constructed from thread and thermo-fused glue.


Skin
A range of PVC textiles for luggage.

[Resource]
Image accessed at: http://www.matieresouvertes.com/ [Accessed  29 October 2014]

http://collectiftextile.com/matieres-ouvertes/ [Accessed  29 October 2014]

24 October, 2014

Textile Innovation - Week Two

Non-traditional fibre sources

  • Paper
Paper fibers come from the renewable resources of pine trees, cotton, rice and abaca, a form of banana plant

Recent developments in Japan have introduced paper content fabrics with a softer handle

With a high strength & good light fastness, paper textiles are recyclable

Used also for accessories & floor-coverings
  • Bast fibre
Fibers such as nettle, jute and ramie are derived from the inner fibrous stem material of certain plants.

Some crops can offer environmental & social benefits for local native farmers and should be encouraged.

Health giving herbs like loubuma from China produce textile fibre plus beneficial herbal remedies and medication
  • Leaf fibre
A minority area as only a few plants have the necessary commercial attributes for economic fibre production

Agave, pineapple and banana are sources of supply

From naturally renewable resources, fibers are hard wearing & strong

Uses include floor coverings, fibers for paper, accessories, shoes and rope
  • Hemp
Man's oldest cultivated fibre, hemp is a versatile crop where every part has a use

It has natural strength, UV resistance, thermal properties & durability

This naturally renewable resource requires little agricultural assistance

Hemp is now seen in denim and casual sports fabrics, interior and domestic textiles. In non-woven form it is used for insulation in cars
  • Seed hair fibres
Cotton is a commercial source of seed hair fiber. these are the more unusual sources

The fine, light & silky short fibers are used for insulation and fibre filling

Coir is hard wearing & abrasion resistant, used for flooring coverings, geotextiles and ropes

They are natural renewable resource, and often grown in areas of limited agricultural potential
  • Bio-fibres
Biotechnology is a growing area, as we seek replacements for oil based fibres

Dextrose from plants can create a PLA fibre with an acceptable 360 life cycle

Spider silk is a biologically engineered fibre being investigated via genetic modification

Castor beans, milk, bamboo & soya are all new sources of fibre & polymers

Textiles are also being experimentally 'grown' from fermented yeast bacteria with links to tissue culture. 
  • Alginate
Produced from brown sea weed, alginate fibers have natural healing properties from the iodine content

Blended with cellulose fibers, fabrics are used in underwear that imparts anti-inflammatory and antiseptic benefits to the skin

In medical applications, non woven alginate fibers hasten blood clotting and  encourage healing on damaged skin

They are used as non-woven burn and skin dressings
  • Man-made synthetics
Polyethylene, PVC, polypropylene and polyurethane are all forms of synthetics from non renewable oil-based resources

All have properties of high strength, can be heat set, and provide a wide variety of different products for industrial, medical, sports, and medical textiles

Fibers and products can be recyclable
  • Peat
Peat fibre is produced form organic plant remains found in Scandinavia peat bogs

They have good thermal properties, UV resistance, are antistatic with natural antiseptic properties

Fabrics have a warm woolen felted handle and are produced organically

Used in woven & knitted fabrics for clothing, blankets, interior products and footwear
  • Metal Fibers
Aluminium, copper & steel are the metals used in textiles to impart functional textiles to impart functional and aesthetic properties

Metal-content fibers have the ability to memories a predetermined shape and react to heat

They can assist in protecting against electromagnetic radiation, and are detectable by radar and heat-seeking devices


22 October, 2014

Research - MAKIKO WAKISAKA

Makiko Wakisaka

Japanese Fiber Artist

Artist Statement:
Using leaf vein for material, stitching them together ... transparent object will appear.
Theme of my works are
[somethig looks fragile has a strong energy inside]
ex.) chrysalis, cocoon, seeds




Cloudy Sunrise 1994

Material: Leaf Vien,  Nylon thread, Polyester thread 

Technique: Machine stitch & Hand stitch

I like the way she's layering leaves up and dying them into different color which make this art piece shows a 3D effect even it's a flat textile.



Life 2002

Material: Leaf vien, Nylon thread, Polyester thread, Water soluble cloth 

Technique: Machine stitch & Hand stitch

Manipulating leaf veins, curving them into 3D form and stitching together, creates a very organic jewelry piece.



Cell

Material: Leaf vien, Nylon thread, Polyester thread, Water soluble cloth 

Technique: Machine stitch & Hand stitch

Similar technique as the one above, but dying into different color



Line and melody - exhibition with ZU, Sun-Kyoung Interior space 2006

Interesting interior textile, like the way the it's a bit transparency and cloudy, but also with color in dots.



Asian dust 2007

Size: H200 W300

Material: Leaf Vien,  Nylon thread, Polyester thread

Technique: Machine stitch & Hand stitch

photo : 金賛洙


Chrysalis 2008

Size: H13 W20 D20

Material: Leaf Vien, Nylon thread, Polyester thread

Technique: Machine stitch & Hand stitch

Rather than a flat textile piece, this is a more interesting and experimental like a textile sculpture.


Frosty moments 2008 

Material: Leaf Vien, Nylon thread, Polyester thread

Technique: Machine stitch & Hand stitch

Cutting and Layering to create a textile with depth, remains me of nest.


Cell -microcosmos 2009

Size: H300 W180 D180 

Material: Leaf Vien, Nylon thread, Polyester thread

Technique: Machine stitch & Hand stitch

Photo : Elena Colombo


Sea and clouds and sea 2009

Size: H20 W20 D5

Material: Leaf Vien, Nylon thread, Polyester thread

Technique: Machine stitch & Hand stitch

Cutting into stripes, dying, layering 


Cell -microcosmos 2013

Size: H270 W180 D180 

Material: Leaf Vien, Nylon thread, Polyester thread

Technique: Machine stitch & Hand stitch

Photo : 塩澤一洋

[Reasource]
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.526161257478333.1073742248.135294296565033&type=3 [Accessed  22 October 2014]

Image accessed at: http://members.jcom.home.ne.jp/makiko1970/  [Accessed  22 October 2014]

19 October, 2014

Textile Innovation - Week One Part Three

[ Notes Part THREE]
  • Luxury hair fibre
The most expensive and highly prized fibre in the textile world are obtained from animals living in cold climates

These hollow hair fibre are excellent thermal insulators and have a soft handle

Naturally gathered moult hair from farmed fox & mink can be spun and used for exclusive knitted, woven or felt products

Muskox, opossum, rabbit, camel, vicuna and cashmere kel goats all supply luxury fibre.

  • Wool, improved performance
The original high performance fibre, wool has inbuilt thermal qualities, is weatherproof, has UV resistance, fire protection and elasticity properties

Sport-wool is a mix of merino wool with polyester for active sports clothing

100% machine washable wool is now available

Wool is a regenerable resource, can be produced organically and recycled

  • Polyamide
This oil-based synthetic fibre is produced from oil, a finite resource, it is very strong, resists wear & tear, and blends well with other fibre

Polyamide can be engineered to suit specific purposes, such as wicking properties for underwear & active sports, and UV resistance

Branded Cordura & Kevlar fibre have excellent abrasion resistance, durability & high tensile strength

  • Polyester
The worlds most extensively used synthetic fibre, polyester offers a wide range of function and performance factors

Heat setting allows pleats and shapes to be formed and permanently set

Recycling is possible from polyester water bottles

Fabrics can be laser cut and welded

Microfibre are superfine and sophisticated 


18 October, 2014

Textile Innovation - Week One Part Two

[ Notes Part TWO]

-----Developments in commercial fibre sources
  • Cotton, sustainable production
Cotton provides about 45% of the worlds fibre consumption, and is the world largest non food crop

Conventional agriculture accounts for 25% of global insecticide use

Organic cotton is becoming more widely available

Naturally colored cotton is a commercial product

Cotton can be recycled and composted

[Further Personal Research]
  • Sally Fox - inventor of the foxfibre colored cotton
Sally Fox introduced naturally colored cotton to the world in 1989. She didn’t invent it – it has existed in nature for eons – but Sally did what no one thought was possible: she carefully hand-bred ancient, naturally pest-resistant varieties into long staple cottons that can be spun by conventional mills. And she did it using organic and biodynamic growing methods.

A few samples of Sally’s organic grown-in color cotton fabric, woven commercially in the US in the 1990s.
  • A new fashion brand in Brazil, Natural Cotton Color, has made their focus using the spectrum of cotton colors that exist naturally. There are 40 different natural colors of cotton.



Original varieties come in a range of colors: mocha, tan, gray, brown, black, mahogany, red, pink, blue, green, cream and white. 

Colored cotton has become obscure because shorter fiber lengths make it unsuitable for industrial milling, but it's in fact more robust and sustainable than commercial white cotton, which requires an enormous amount of pesticides to keep it viable.

Developing natural colored cotton eliminates the need for chemical dyes and uses 70% less water than conventional production. Grown on small farms to support local agriculture.

[Resource] 
Sally Fox - inventor of the foxfibre colored cotton. Available at: <http://www.women-inventors.com/Sally-Fox.asp> [Accessed  18 October 2014]


Karen Brown. [2013]. Sally Fox and the World of Naturally Colored Fiber. Available at: <https://blog.etsy.com/en/2013/sally-fox-and-the-world-of-naturally-colored-fiber/> [Accessed  18 October 2014]

Joel Niedfeldt. [2011]. Natural Cotton Color -The many shades of Brazil's more sustainable cotton movement. Available at: <http://www.coolhunting.com/style/brazil-natural.php> [Accessed  18 October 2014]

  • Cotton, improved performance
Cotton must compete with synthetic fibres in offering improved functionality

Wind and waterproofing qualities can be added via 'nano technology' without altering the fabric's look or touch

Core spinning encases stretch elements inside cotton yarns

Crease resist and easy -care finishes can be added

Genetic modification can assist with improved crop yields but is controversial due to questionable environmental performance

  • Silk
This protein based animal fibre is known for its aesthetic appeal & luxurious qualities

Genetic manipulation can create finer and longer fibre, and inbuilt color

Wild silk from South Africa provides a sustainable income for rural populations

Strong fine silk fibre are used in the medical world, cosmetic products, paper making, insulation and thermal underwear.

[Further Personal Research]
In Asian culture, silk is a popular fabric for the wealth in ancient time. 

Surcoat (Jinbaori)

Period: Edo period (1615–1868)
Date: 17th century
Culture: Japan
Medium: Body: China, for the European market, late 16th–17th century; silk velvet, cut and voided Lining: China, late 16th–17th century; silk damask Lapels: Japan, probably 18th century; lampas, silk and gilt-paper strips
Available at: <http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/39902?rpp=30&pg=1&ft=chinese+silk&pos=9>


Noh Costume (Surihaku) with Chinese Bellflowers

Period: Edo period (1615–1868)
Date: 18th century
Culture: Japan
Medium: Gold and silver leaf on silk satin
Accessed at: <http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/45198?rpp=30&pg=1&ft=chinese+silk&pos=27>

Saddle

Date: 17th–18th century
Culture: Chinese for the Tibetan market
Medium: Iron, gold, silver, wood, coral, ivory, silk, hair, tin, pigments, leather
Accessed at: <http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/26642?rpp=30&pg=1&ft=chinese+silk&pos=16>

  • Flax
This very ancient raw material is known as linen, and offers a wide variety of end uses and products.

In addition to clothing textiles, linen is used in automotive, construction, domestic and interior textile areas

Enzyme use has improved environmental aspects of production

Combinations with stretch fibre, silk, viscose and polyester provide a range of functions and characteristics, plus reducing creasing problems

[Further Personal Research]
The Row Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear shows a great collection that match silk, linen and cotton together.




 Silk and linen always use in loose, simple, elegant silhouettes, shows a comfort and costly feeling.

Image Accessed at: <http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/row/collection/2>

  • Man-made cellulosic
Produced from natural cellulosic sources of wood pulp , cotton, linen and bamboo

Textiles are fluid and soft to handle, with strong wet strength, absorbency and breathability

Tencel is a branded cellulose fibre produced in a 'closed loop' system with improved environmental performance

Lyocell is used in woven & knitted forms, and as a non-woven for medical applications and hospital textiles.